Thursday, August 18, 2016

Suprise and Glacier Lakes below Stevens Pass.

Panoramic view of Lake Surprise
Surprise and Glacier Lakes are two underrated destinations near Stevens Pass.  On the WTA website, local hikers and backpackers have rated it a 3 out of 5.   Both lakes are beautiful and the Surprise Creek trail is in great shape. Could it be the elevation gain (2700 feet--900 feet more than Snow Lake (Snoqualmie Pass) and double Lake 22) or, ironically, the popularity of the trail that makes many hikers dismissive of this hike?   Maybe I'm an easy grader, but I would give the hike at least a 4 out of 5.   That being said, there are a few annoying signage issues about the trail .
Surprise Lake Trailhead is off Hwy 2 ten miles past Skykomish
The first issue is the trailhead. The guidebook tells us we can find the start of the trail 10 miles past Skykomish on the right, near the site of old Scenic, Washington. Don't look for a sign for Scenic. Trust your odometer. There are no signs at the turnoff indicating anything, except, "Emergency Parking Only." On opposite side of the highway, nearly even with the turnoff, is a sign for the "Iron Goat Interpretive Site." When I went up yesterday, all I saw was a construction crew working on the railroad crossing, under a sign that read, "PRIVATE RAILROAD CROSSING. NO TRESPASSING." When I asked if this was the way to the trailhead, the crew wasn't sure, but let me go by. Sure enough, in less than a half mile, I was at the trailhead. There were probably a half dozen cars already there.

The hike begins under humming powerlines.
The hike begins inauspiciously, under the hum of powerlines, but quickly turns into the forest where the shaded trail is outstanding, complete with boardwalks and steps. Soon the sound of the rushing creek replaces the noise of the highway. Blue huckleberries abound along the side of the lower half the trail.

The first half of the Surprise Creek Trail is in excellent shape.

Eventually, though, some work needs to be done to get up to the lakes, and the trail steepens as promised. The loving attention it got the on the lower half disappears. It's still in good shape, but the steps and boards have been replaced with rocks and roots. Even in August, small streams cross the trail. That being said, the bugs weren't bad yesterday.
Blue huckleberries Abound Along the Lower half of the trail.
Just before the lake is the cutoff to Rattrap Pass to the left. The old sign also points that way to Scenic Lake (another name for Glacier). Stay right. No one seems to use that spur much. The PCT hikers I met were coming down the Glacier Lake trail.  One of the guys needed to get to Stevens Pass where a box of provisions was waiting for him.   He looked emaciated, and seemed to need more than a few freeze-dried meals to recover. After he picked up this supplies, he told me he was going to have to  hike back up to where he left off.  Such is the cross carried by the PCT through hiker.  He had come a long way from Mexico only diverted from his quest by  some wildfires along the way. 
The rarely-used Trap Pass Trail climbs the ridge to the left.  STAY RIGHT!
Once you take the Y to the right to Surprise Lake, you'll need to cross a branch of the creek from east to west (left to right). A myriad campers' trails can create a little bit of confusion along the lake, but the main trail runs along the east shore. Four or five groups were either breaking camp or setting up when I came through. What a great place to spend a night in the mountains! The water is a lovely emerald green. A few trout splashed after flies. However, I was headed to the higher lake.
Emerald green and clear, Surprise Lake
An important clarification to the guide for folks who want to head up to Glacier Lake: the trail to Glacier is only about a third of the way down the shore. A sign seems to point left to the toilet and right to Glacier. This is wrong. In fact, to get to either, you need to veer left. The sign is confusing enough for someone to have scratched another arrow to indicate the trail to Glacier begins to the left. Continuing straight will only take you along several more campsites along the lake, terminating in a boulder field.

Veer left about 1/3 up Surprise Lake to Hike to Glacier
The trail to Glacier quickly climbs the ridge. Just after the trail crests, you'll see Glacier Lake glimmering to the right. Look for the "CAMP" sign to access the lake right away. The old, metal Forest Service sign, "Glacier Lake," is a few yards in the woods, tacked on a tree, and not visible from the trail.
Access Glacier Lake from this trail
towards the southern end of the lake.
The Glacier Lake sign cannot
be seen from the trail.

Glacier Lake is bigger, bluer, and colder than Surprise. I took a quick dip, encouraged by a horse fly the size of a quarter, and a few confused hornets. They buzzed by but didn't bite. I kind of the thought the extra work would buy more solitude, but it really didn't. As I ate my lunch, a couple more campers arrived with a dog. A rider also rode up on horseback.
Glacier Lake panoramic
Eventually, I turned back down the trail. At the end of Surprise Lake, I had to find the right trail to cut back to the east (now right side) across the creek. As I marched down the trail on weary legs, I watched my altimeter indicate my slow descent. It was a hot day. I was thankful I brought a filter to replenish my water supply from the creek. Eventually, I could hear the freeway, and then the humming of the power lines. Sadly, back to civilization. The distance, elevations, and beauty of the Scenic Lakes can fill up your day. I was sorry I didn't overnight it. Maybe then, I would give it an 5/5.

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